Srinagar to Pathankot: Ride through the Valley of Death…well almost

The Srinagar-Jammu highway is closed for traffic every night when the army sweeps every inch of it for any concealed improvised explosive devices. This is hostile territory, make no mistake. But in the day, it proves to be as much a killer. Owing to the Amarnath Yatra, the traffic is the heaviest I’ve ever seen on any highway. It’s slow progress as we snake up to the famed Jawahar Tunnel and then down again.

We are overtaken by a foreigner, smiling and waving, on a low, powerful KTM sports touring bike. A few miles later, he crashes into the drain next to the road and understandably loses his good humour. Our spirits are no better, battered by diesel fumes, honking horns and the endless stream of vehicles being driven by lunatics. Makes me miss the tranquility of Ladakh already.

After Patni top, we stop for an epic lunch which goes on longer than intended. The view from this dhaba is lovely and just right to stop at, and watch the traffic go by from. And then, the ride toward Udhampur. We ditch Jammu in favour of the relatively unused state highway toward Samba. The terrain here is reminiscent of the muddy ravines of Chambal. As darkness descends, a chai stop at a dhaba in the middle of nowhere, a few moments to soak in the wilderness, the isolation, the realization that I may not be back here again and then we head out.

The road from Samba to Pathankot was under repair and being four-laned. In the dark, with oncoming traffic and headlights, the last part of the ride is rather tiresome. Once again, the realization that night riding is never a great idea. The fun part of the ride has given way to the tedium of commute. As we pull into Pathankot late in the night, the town seems dead. It’s pretty warm now and the dust and grime of travel is suddenly all too apparent. We manage to get a large room on a budget in a seedy hotel close to the bus stand. The narrow stairway and the dingy green corridors with dim red bulbs is something right out of a Ram Gopal Varma film.

However, later, after a shower, sitting in an air conditioned room with enough rum, butter chicken and tandoori rotis, this place seems like a haven. Not so much for Darius who seems visibly upset on getting the news that Michael Jackson has died today. It’s the 25th of June 2009. End of an era for sure. But I am a bit more upset about the fact that the epic journey has come to an end. And I’ll wager, so is Nitin.

I’m pretty sure, many years hence, I’ll look at my bike and think, the way you make me feel, is totally off the wall and I can’t stop loving you and I will remember the time, I did this thriller of a ride and I will wanna be startin’ something again…heh heh. Ok tribute to Whacko Jacko…check. Done.